Posts filed under: ‘Patterns‘




Croc Moccs Tutorial

The Croc Mocc

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These booties are made using the crocodile stitch.  I included pictures for those that haven’t worked the stitch before.

Materials-

  • WW medium yarn
  • 6mm & 6.5mm hook
  • weaving needle

You can use different weight yarn and different hook sizes to get bigger or smaller sizes.  The purpley booties are made with a thinner WW yarn than the pink ones and with the hooks I stated above the sole measures 4 1/2″ long

Sole-

You work this by going on BOTH sides of the beginning chain, this forms an oval.

1.) Ch 10.  2 dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 5 sts, 6dc in last ch. Rotate so you can work on the other side of the beginning chain. dc in next 5 chs, 3 dc in last ch. Join to top of ch 3. Do NOT turn. (22)

2.) Ch 3.  Dc in same place, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next 7sts, dc in next 5, 2 dc in each of last 2 sts. Joint to top of ch 3.  Do NOT turn. (32)

3.) Ch 2.  Work in back loops ONLY for this round. HDC in each st around.  Join to top of ch 3. Do NOT turn.

4.) Ch 2.  HDC in next 7 sts, dc2tog 8 times, HDC in next 8 sts. Join to top of ch 2. Do NOT turn. (24)

5.) Ch 2.  HDC in next 7 sts, dc2tog 4 times, HDC in next 8 sts.  Join to top of ch 2. Do NOT turn. (20)

6.) Use a hook that is 1 size smaller. Ch 2. sc in next 2sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in 2sts,  2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts.  Join to top of ch 2. Do NOT turn. (24)

It may seem silly to decrease from 24 to 20 then increase back to 24, but the decrease gives the shape for the toes and the increases make the top part of booty big enough for chubby legs since these are pull on booties.  I also find that the crocodile stitch has a tendency to work up tighter and has less stretch than regular hdc and dc stitches.

Ankle- 

7.) Ch 4 (this counts as dc & a ch 1).  *Sk 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts, dc in next st.* repeat aroundYou will end with 2dc and a ch. Join to 3rd ch on the beg ch 4.  Do NOT chain or turn.

This next bit is a little hard to explain even with the pictures, but I will do as best as I can and I will also add a link to a video tutorial I used for the beanie as it is the same idea.

Skip the ch 4(which remember is the first dc & ch1).  Now you will do a dc into the front of the 1st dc in the 2dc(V st) from row 7.

dc into front post of first dc in V st

dc into front post of first dc in V st

This is what it will look like

This is what it will look like

Do 4 more dc just like the one you just did.  This creates the one side of the scale.

this is what you should have

this is what you should have

Now turn it slightly so you can work into the front of the 2nd dc in the V st and work 5dc.

Sl st into the front of the single dc.  There is your first scale.

What the scale will look like

What the scale will look like

8.)* Working around the first dc in the next V st, do 5dc, turn work slightly and do 5dc around the 2nd dc in the Vst, sl st around the single dc* repeat around.  You should have 4 scales.

9.) Ch 3(1st dc), dc in same place(V st), ch 1, *dc into the center of the scale, ch1, V st into the single dc from row 7(you should be able to see it in between the scales), ch 1* repeat around.  Join to top of ch 3.

Dc into center of scale

Dc into center of scale

V st into the single dc from row 7

V st into the single dc from row 7

what it should look like

what it should look like

10.) Ch 3(1st dc), * Working around the first dc in the next V st, do 4dc, turn work slightly and do 5dc around the 2nd dc in the Vst, sl st around the single dc* repeat around.

11.)  Ch 3(1st dc), dc in same place(V st), ch 1, *dc into the center of the scale, ch1, V st into the single dc from row 9(you should be able to see it in between the scales), ch 1* repeat around.  Join to top of ch 3.

12.) Ch 3(1st dc), * Working around the first dc in the next V st, do 4dc, turn work slightly and do 5dc around the 2nd dc in the Vst, sl st around the single dc* repeat around.

Switch to the larger hook for these last rounds.

13.) Ch 3(1st dc), dc in same place(V st), ch 1, *dc into the center of the scale, ch1, V st into the single dc from row 11(you should be able to see it in between the scales), ch 1* repeat around.  Join to top of ch 3.

14.) Ch 3(1st dc), * Working around the first dc in the next V st, do 4dc, turn work slightly and do 5dc around the 2nd dc in the Vst, sl st around the single dc* repeat around.  Finish off and weave in ends.

You can make the booties higher, I would maybe go up another hook size if the baby has chubby legs, as many babies do lol.  You can also add some buttons for detail down the outer side of each booty.

If you want to make it look like the dark pink ones, hdc around the top.  You should have 24 sts, but if you have a couple more it is ok- don’t want the top too tight around the leg.

If you need help with this stitch here is a great tutorial, the one I used to learn this stitch.

booty

Copyright Amber deGoutiere 2013.  This is my own original design.  Please do NOT claim this pattern as your own or sell it.  However feel free to use for personal use, gifts or charities

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Add a comment March 6, 2013

How to Attach the Arms to a Stuffy

So there a couple ways I attach the arms.   The first and my favorite way to do the arms is what I call the “open” way, the second is what I call the “closed” way.  The legs are done similarly, but I will do another tutorial for the legs.

You will need a finished body and finished legs and arms.. all stuffed.

WAY 1– open

What I mean by open is that you haven’t closed it off.  Stuff hand firmly, but stuff the arm lightly.

Start with the teddy/dolls left arm.  You want to end off so you are at the front side of the arm.. sl st to do that then end off,  leaving long tail to sew to body.

1) Thread yarn through the stitch beside where you ended off on the arm.

1

2) Figure out where you want the arm to go and anchor it by pulling needle and thread through the stitch on the body where you want the arm to begin.

2

3) Pull needle and thread through next st on arm on both the outside and inside of arm.  Only go through the outside loops.

3

4) Go into next st on the body.

4

Repeat going into sts n arm and body until the arm is attached.

attached

Go into a stitch under the last st you attached arm to and pull through to front of arm.

Go into arm again.

Go through this st in body:

Pull through and knot then pull yarn through under arm and cut off end.

Then go back through st on other side beside where you ended off.

Finish attaching arm in the same way you did the first.

WAY 2– closed

By closed I mean you close the hole up and completely finish off the arm.  Stuff and weave in ends and cut off.  Thread needle with an extra long peice of yarn.

1) Again, start with the teddys left arm.  Figure out where you want the arm to go on the body, then go into the stitch below it.

1

2) Come out on the other side of the body where you want the arm to go.. not below it.

2

Leave a tail where you went into the body.  You will use this to tie after.

 

you will have this

 

3)  Go into arm, from the inside and go out through the outside.  Then go into st beside where you came out from and go back in, outside to inside.  When you pull yarn through, keep it tight and try to push the arm towards the body as you pull or it will get stuck.

3

4) Now go onto the stitch beside where you came out of the body. These pics are for legs, for some reason I stopped taking pics while doing the arms and didn’t realize until I had started the legs.  As you can see the legs and arms are done the same way lol.

4

5) Come out on the other side of the body, above where you first went in.

5

Do other arm in the same way you just did the first (steps 3 & 4).  Nowgo into the body where you came out and come back out beside the beginning tail.

Pull each end so legs are firmly attached but will still move.  When you have it as tight as you want it, knot, weave in ends and cut off.

2 comments October 19, 2011

How to attach a Head on a Stuffy

I had someone ask me how I attach the body parts on teddy bears, so here is a quick tutorial.  I am going out of town but when I get back I will do a better one, this was just to quickly show anyone who is interested.

The head is the one part I’m really not that good at lol.. I’m only slightly better at attaching the legs.

First you need a body and a head, both already finished and stuffed.  Weave in the end from the body.  After you close up the head leave a very long tail and weave it through the stitches so it is centered.. or as centered as you can get it.

Then push the needle and yarn through the top of the body.. down the centre.  It might be a little hard because of the stuffing but just wiggle it around and it should go through.

Okay, I don’t have pictures for the next part but it’s pretty simple and when I get a chance I will add pictures.

Weave the needle and yarn through a couple stitched at the bottom… Make sure you keep the tension fairly firm on the yarn.  This anchors the head so it’s easier to attach.  

Now we will put a stitch at the front, back and both sides of the head.  Weave the yarn back up the body and come up at the front of the head.  Go through one of the stitches in the head.. I usually go into one that is right at the bottom of the head. 

 Go back into the body with the needle and yarn and come up at the back and do the same as you did for the front.  Do the same for both sides.  

Knot and weave end and cut off.

Add a comment October 9, 2011

How to embroider a nose on a teddy bear

I have had a few people ask me how I do my noses so I thought I would do a picture tutorial.  This is by no means the only or even the best way, but this is how I do it and so far it has worked lol.  Also, I’m not the best at always explaining in writing and even though there are pics that should help, if you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask.

First you will need to make the muzzle… or if you are making a teddy and don’t do the muzzle you can just do this straight on the head.  Then you will need a needle that is big enough to thread your embroidery thread through.  Note:  for thread bears I just use sewing thread that I have doubled.  Knot the thread after you have threaded it through the needle head.   The thread should be doubled now.

1) Ok, so now you need to figure out how big you want the muzzle to be.  I usually do it 4 stitch holes across. I do a triangle for the nose so there will be 3 corners.  I start at one of the top corners and going in from the back, pull the needle and thread through (see pic)

1

2) Now count four stitch holes across and go into the hole from the front.  This forms the top line of the nose.

2

3) Next from the back pull needle and thread through the hole below the big hole… so descriptive I know lol but I have no clue what to call it.

3

4) Now go into one of the top corner stitches from the front.  This forms one of the sides.

4

5) Go back into the bottom corner and pull needle and thread through front and go into the other top corner.  Now you have a triangle.  This is pretty much just a guide to follow while you close in the nose.

5

6) Now we need to fill in the nose.  Come back up through the bottom corner and go down into the middle of the top line.  Work over the original triangle lines you made.

6

7) We will fill one side at a time.  Repeat the above step 2 more times, moving over on the top line slightly.

7

8 ) Now, come up through the next hole beside the bottom corner and go through beside where you just went through on the top line.

8

9) Do the same thing but go through the next hole on the side.

9

Okay, you’re done the one side for now.  You should have this:

Now do the other side the same way you did the first side.

 

Come through the bottom corner and go into one of the top corners.  This will clean up the side.  Do the same for the other side.

You can either leave it like this or clean up the top of the nose.  Go from one top corner to the other.

You’re done the nose.  You can add a mouth if you want.  Going from the bottom corner I go through one hole down (I do this twice so the line is more visible).  Then go 2 holes over on either side (I do twice as well).  This is where you can add a bit of an expression by doing one side of the smile longer than the other or only doing one side, doing more of a straight line or even making the lines point down.

Note:  You might have tiny gaps in the nose.. I usually do… that’s ok.  Take a sharpie or felt pen in the colour you did the nose (this is why I usually do black noses lol) and just colour it in.

6 comments October 8, 2011

Old Fashioned Teddy Bear Pattern

Materials:

  • Yarn (any weight you want.. the thinner the yarn the smaller the bear and vice versa)
  • Crochet hook (appropriate for the yarn you choose)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Craft/dolls eyes or buttons will do
  • Stuffing
  • Row/st marker

I have tested this pattern, but that doesn’t mean there are no mistakes.  If you find any or have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

BODY:

1)  ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)

2) 2 sc in each st around (16)

3) *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (24)

4)  *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (31)

5) sc in easch st around

6) *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (39)

7) sc in each st around

8 ) *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (48)

9-17) sc in each st around

18) *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (39)

19-20) sc in each st around

21) *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (32)

22) *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (24)

23) sc in each st around

24) *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (18)

25) *sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat around (12) Stuff

26) sc2tog around.  End off leaving a long tail sew hole closed.

 

LEGS: make 2

1) ch 7.  sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st (16) This will form an oval for the bottom of foot.

2) 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, 2 dc in next 3 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st (21)

3-4) sc in each st around

5) sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts (19)

6) sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc2rog, sc in next 5 sts (17)

7) sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts (16)

8-13) sc in each st around

14) 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next 6 sts (23)

15-19) sc in each st around

20) sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts (20)

21) *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (16)

22) *sc in next2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (12)

23) *sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat around (8) Stuff

24) sc2tog around.  End off leaving long tail to sew hole closed

 

ARMS: make 2

1) ch 2.  8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)

2) 2 sc in each st around (16)

3) *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around.  End with sc in next 2 sts (20)

4) sc in each st around

5) 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in each st for the rest of the round (24)

6-8) sc in each st around

9) sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each st for the rest of round (20)

10) sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in each st for the rest of round (16)

11-22) sc in each st around

23) *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts* repeat around, sc in last st (12)

24) *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* repeat around, sc in last st (10)

25) sc2tog around.  End off leaving long tail to sew hole closed.

It should look like this

EARS: make 2

1) ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)

2) 2 sc in next 5 sts. (13)  sl st and end off leaving long tail to sew to head.

 

MUZZLE:

1) ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

3) 2 sc in each st around (24)

4) sc in each st around. End off leaving long tail to sew onto head.  Emboider nose and mouth.  Lightly stuff when sewing onto the head.

 

HEAD:

1) ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10)

2) 2 sc in each st around (20)

3) *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (25)

4) *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around, sc in last 2 sts (30)

5-6) sc in each st around

7) *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (36)

8) *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around, sc in last 2 sts (42)

9-12) sc in each st around

13) *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (34)

14) *sc in next 3, sc2tog* repeat around, sc in last st (28)

15) sc in each st around

16) *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (21)

17) *sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat around (14)  Attach muzzle and eyes.  Stuff.

18) sc2tog around.  End off leaving long tail to sew hole closed and to attach to body

Assembly:

Sew muzzle and ears onto  head, then sew the head, arms and legs onto the body

Copyright Amber deGoutiere 2011.  This is my own original design.  Please do NOT claim this pattern as your own or sell it.  However feel free to use for personal use, gifts or charities

9 comments October 8, 2011

Teddy Bear

Size: about 15 inches tall (head to toe) with chunky yarn.

Materials:

  • Yarn (any weight you want.. the thinner the yarn the smaller the bear and vice versa) I used about three 50g balls for the blue bear
  • Crochet hook (appropriate for the yarn you choose)
  • Tapestry needle
  • 15 mm size craft/dolls eyes or buttons will do (1/2 inch I would say)
  • Stuffing
  • Row/st marker

This is my first pattern that I am sharing.  I have tested it, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be mistakes, so if you find one please let me know so I can correct. 🙂

Head

1.  Ch 2.  10 sc in 2nd ch from hook (10)

2.  2 sc in each sc around (20)

3.  *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (30)

4-5.  sc in each st around

6. *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (40)

7-8.  sc in each st around

9.  *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st* repeat around (50)

10.11.  sc in each st around

12.  *1 sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (40)

13-14.  sc in each st around

15.  *1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (30)

16-17.  sc in each st around

18.  *1sc in next sts, sc2tog^ repeat around (20)

19.  *sc2tog* repeat around (10) I attach the muzzle here and then put the eyes on and then stuff.

20. *sc2tog* repeat around.  End off, leaving a long tail.  There will still be an opening so I just weave the yarn through each stitch around and pull closed.

Body

1. Ch 2.  8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8)

2.  2sc in each sc around (16)

3. *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (24)

4.  *1sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (32)

5-6.    sc in each st around

7.  *1sc in next 3sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (40)

8.  sc in each st around

9.  *1sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st* repeat around (48)

10-15.  sc in each st around

16.  *1sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (40)

17-19.  sc in each st around

20.  *1sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (32)

21-22.  sc in each st around

23.  *1sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog* repeat around (24)

24. *1sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat around (16)

25.  *1sc in next st, sc2tog* repeat around (11)  I stuff here

26. *sc2tog* repeat around.  End off leaving long tail.  Weave through remaining stitches and draw closed.

Arms make 2

1.  ch 2.  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2.  2sc in each st around (12)

3.  2sc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 9 sts.  (15)

4.  2sc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 12 sts (18)

5-7. sc in each st around

8.  [sc2tog] 3 times, 1 sc in next 12  sts (15)

9.  [sc2tog] 3 times, 1 sc in next 9 sts (12)

10-17.  sc in each st around Stuff

18.  *sc2tog* repeat around.  End off leaving long tail for sewing to body.  Do not close

Legs make 2

Bottom of foot: This is where I used the different coloured yarn.

   1.  ch 7.  1sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next 4 ch, 4 sc in last ch.  Turn and work on other side of beginning chain.  1sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch.  place marker  (15)

2.  2 sc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts, [2sc] 8 times, 1sc in next 4 sts. (24)

3.  sc in each st around  If you are using a different colour for the bottom of foot, join original(body) colour in same st as last sc and sc.

4-9.  sc in each st around

10.  1sc in next 12 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, 1 sc in next 6 sts. (21)

11.  1sc in next 11 sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, 1 sc in next 4 sts (18)

12.  1sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4 sts  (17)

13.  sc in each st around Stuff foot

14- 28.  sc in each st around

29.  [sc2tog] 8 times, 1 sc in last st (9)  End off, leaving long tail and weave through remaining stitches then draw closed.

Ears make 2

1.  Ch2. 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Ch1 and turn (7)

2.  1 sc in each st across

For bigger ears:  3.  Ch1 turn.  2 sc in each st across (14)

You could even make 2 small ears in one colour and make 2 bigger ears and then sew the smaller ears onto the bigger ones.

Muzzle

1.  Ch2.  6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)

2.  2 sc in each st around (12)

3.  *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* repeat around (19)

4.  1sc in each st around.  End off leaving long tail to sew to head.  Embroider nose and mouth.

Assembly

Sew muzzle and ears onto  head, then sew the head, arms and legs onto the body.

Copyright Amber deGoutiere 2011.  This is my own original design.  Please do NOT claim this pattern as your own or sell it.  However feel free to use for personal use, gifts or charities.


77 comments April 21, 2011

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